Pedigree pets are gorgeous, predictable, and occasionally a handful. That’s the honest package. If you’re leaning Maine Coon, the famous “gentle giant”, you’re not just buying fluff and ear tufts; you’re signing up for a big-brained, big-boned cat that eats like a linebacker and wants to be involved in everything you do. Sounds dreamy. Also expensive.
So let’s de-mystify the process without sugarcoating it. You’ll get straight checklists, a little tough love, and the exact paperwork to ask for before you send anyone a deposit. No fluff. Real steps.
First, do you actually want a purebred?
Predictability is the main sell, size, coat, temperament, health screening, support from a breeder who knows their lines. The flip side is cost and responsibility, and with Maine Coons, scale. They’re large cats with doglike social habits and a thick double coat that doesn’t groom itself. Cute now, work later.
- Space: Cat trees that won’t wobble, wide litter boxes, high perches. Small studio? Think twice.
- Time: Brushing 2–3x/week, nail trims, playtime that burns energy. Lazy toy toss won’t cut it.
- Money (ongoing): Quality food, vet care, insurance, grooming tools. The purchase price is the down payment, not the mortgage.
- Allergies: Maine Coons aren’t hypoallergenic. No cat is. Meet one before you commit.
Pedigree vs registration vs marketing fluff
These terms get mashed together online and that’s how buyers get burned. A “pedigree” is the multi-generation family tree that shows parents, grandparents, and so on, 3 to 5 generations is typical. Registration is the official record with a registry like TICA (The International Cat Association), CFA (Cat Fanciers’ Association), or WCF (World Cat Federation). One proves ancestry; the other proves the registry recognizes it. Different things. Both matter.
- Ask for: Litter registration number and the cattery’s prefix in TICA/CFA/WCF. Then confirm with the registry. Don’t just take screenshots, email or call.
- Pedigree timing: Many breeders release the final pedigree or registration slip after proof of spay/neuter for pet-quality kittens. That’s normal.
- Polydactyl note: Some registries allow showing polys in specific divisions or not at all; policies vary. Ask if showing matters to you.
How to spot an ethical breeder (and skip the headache)
Ethical breeders are annoyingly transparent. They’ll show you health testing, discuss weaknesses in their lines, and say no to buyers who aren’t a fit. Scammers do the opposite, fast yes, fast payment, fast ghosting.
When you’re browsing, compare how catteries present health testing, registration, and contracts; pages listing MeoWoff Maine Coon kittens will give you a sense of the level of detail you should expect, genetic tests named, registry spelled out, and delivery options explained without hand-waving. Use that bar everywhere you look.
- Verification moves:
- Request a live video tour, kittens with their queen, litter area, food setup, litter boxes. One continuous call. No cuts.
- Reverse-image search photos; scammers recycle images. Yes, still.
- Ask for a current vet letter with cattery name, plus microchip numbers if assigned.
- Call the registry and confirm breeder/cattery status. Two minutes that save thousands.
- Environment cues:
- House-raised kittens with everyday noises and gentle handling from week two onward.
- Clean litter areas, clear water sources, enrichment (climbers, scratchers, puzzles).
- No “barn full of breeds” situation. Focused programs are safer.
- Contract sanity:
- Indoor-only, no declawing, rehoming support clause. That’s welfare, not control.
- Health guarantee that actually names conditions and timelines, not vague feel-good lines.
- Deposits with refund terms in writing. Payment methods with receipts. No gift cards. No crypto.
Maine Coon health tests: what’s real, what’s fluff
Maine Coons need two kinds of HCM screening, DNA and imaging, because the common DNA test doesn’t catch all forms. If you only see “HCM DNA clear,” you’re missing half the picture. Ask about echocardiograms done by a board-certified cardiologist at reasonable intervals for breeding cats. Paperwork or it didn’t happen.
- Core genetic tests: HCM DNA, SMA, PK-Def (lab name included, dates visible).
- Cardiac imaging: Echocardiogram reports for studs/queens on a schedule; young breeders should be re-checked as they mature.
- Hips/orthopedic: Photos and vet notes on hip/limb soundness where available; watch for stiffness or “bunny hopping” in videos.
- General vetting: FVRCP shots, deworming, microchip, FeLV/FIV test policy. Rabies based on local law and age.
DNA alone doesn’t clear a line. Echos alone don’t catch carrier status. You need both. Annoying, yes. Necessary, also yes.
Red flags that end with you crying to your bank
- Price way below market “today only.” No, it’s not a blessing. It’s bait.
- Shipping-only, no visits, no live video. That’s a hard pass.
- Refusal to name the vet, registry, or lab used for tests. Or they send blurry PDFs that look templated.
- “Teacup” or “mini” Maine Coon. Not a thing. Run.
- Contracts missing health guarantee details or any clause about returns/rehoming.
What should a Maine Coon cost, and what’s included
Prices swing with region, titles, color, and program size. You’re usually paying for health testing, vet work, proper socialization, and breeder time, and yes, some lines and looks cost more because demand exists. That’s the market.
- Common inclusions:
- Vet record with vaccine dates, microchip ID, deworming schedule.
- Registration slip or agreement to issue after proof of neuter/spay for pet homes.
- Written health guarantee with congenital coverage window (read exclusions like FIP carefully).
- Starter food and care instructions, sometimes a blanket with litter scent to ease transition.
- Deposits: Clear refund/transfer policy if litter sex/color isn’t available. Get it in writing.
- Payment: Invoice + receipt. Avoid anonymous methods. Use buyer protection when possible.
Pet quality vs show quality, what you actually need
Most families want pet-quality. It’s not “lesser”, it just means the cat has a cosmetic fault in show terms (ears, muzzle, coat pattern symmetry) or the breeder limits breeding rights. Personality doesn’t care about ring scores. Pick for temperament first.
- Temperament fit:
- Confident and people-focused for busy homes with kids or dogs.
- More reserved kitten for quieter homes; still social, just not center stage.
- Male vs female: Males often run bigger and goofier; females can be slightly more self-directed. Stereotypes aren’t guarantees, meet the kitten.
Timing, vaccines, and travel
Maine Coon kittens leave later than you think. Twelve to fourteen weeks is normal; larger breeds benefit from extra time with mom and littermates. Earlier release is convenient for sellers and rough on kittens. Don’t rush it.
- Before pickup:
- FVRCP at 8–9 and 12–13 weeks (schedules vary), deworming, microchip inserted and registered to you.
- Rabies depends on age and local law, ask and document.
- Health certificate for travel if crossing borders or flying.
- Transport:
- Flight nanny riding in-cabin beats cargo for most kittens.
- Ground couriers should be licensed, insured, and willing to do litter/water breaks with proof.
- Weather restrictions are real. Heat kills. So does cold.
Home setup for a large-breed kitten
- Litter: Two big boxes minimum, low-entry for kittens, unscented clumping litter.
- Vertical space: Tall, sturdy trees with wide platforms; wall shelves that hold adult weight.
- Water: Fountain or multiple bowls. Maine Coons love water and drink more with movement.
- Grooming: Wide-tooth comb + slicker brush; add a detangling spray for the armpits and britches.
- Food: Slow transitions over 7–10 days, wet food daily for moisture, portion control to protect joints.
- Enrichment: Wand play, puzzles, hide-and-seek feeders. Tired kittens don’t wreck curtains.
Ethics, rescue, and retired adults
Buying a purebred and caring about welfare aren’t opposites. Ethical breeders protect their cats for life, contracts with no-declaw, indoor-only, and rehoming support. If you want the breed traits without the kitten chaos, ask about retired adults; many catteries place them at lower cost with full history. Rescue groups also place Maine Coons and lookalikes, temperament over labels wins every time.
Speed-run checklists
Before you place a deposit
- Registry check: Confirm TICA/CFA/WCF cattery prefix and litter registration.
- Health tests: DNA panels named with lab and dates + recent echo results for parents.
- Contract draft: Guarantee terms, refund policy, spay/neuter, rehoming support.
- Live video tour booked and done, kitten, dam, housing, and play areas.
- References: At least two past buyers you can speak to.
Visit or live video questions
- How are kittens socialized from weeks 2–12?
- Any known issues in the line? What was the last outcross?
- Feeding routine now and transition plan for new home?
- What’s covered and excluded in the health guarantee?
Contract and payment sanity
- Invoice + receipt every time. Names and addresses visible.
- Deposit transfer rules if timing/sex/color slips.
- Microchip number on the vet record before pickup when possible.
Shipping documents
- Health certificate, vaccine history, microchip registration transfer.
- Nanny or courier contact + real-time updates. No silent trips.
Home prep
- Safe room ready: litter box, food/water, carrier left open, hiding spots.
- Block crawl spaces, secure cords, stash plants that are toxic to cats.
- Family rules set, no door dashes, gentle handling only.
Quick FAQs
- Are Maine Coons huge? Big, yes. Mythical 30-pounders, no. Healthy adult males commonly land around 13–18 lbs; females a bit less.
- European vs American type? Subtle differences in head shape and profile; both should meet registry standards and breathe, see, and move comfortably.
- When do they mature? Slow burn, many fill out at 3–4 years. Kittens are lanky noodles first.
- Insurance, worth it? For pedigree breeds with potential cardiac issues, many owners find it pays for itself once.
- Can I show a pet-quality kitten? Usually not; show-quality requires breeder approval and appropriate registration.
Final take
Do the boring checks and you get the magical cat. Skip steps and you bankroll a mill. Your call. If you remember nothing else, remember this: verify the registry, read the tests, see the environment, and treat the contract like you’re buying a used car you actually care about. General info only, talk to your vet, and check your local laws before you move money or move a kitten across borders.
