To each climber, the Himalayas symbolize something different. For some, a personal test of physical endurance. For others, the icing on the cake of world travel, standing at the top of the world with peaks stretching out in all directions. Whatever it is that calls you to them, planning your first expedition involves more than finding a plane ticket and showing up with your boots.
But fret not! Thousands make it to their Himalayan dreams every year and most of them start from where you are right now – excited, slightly anxious, and not sure where to begin!
Step 1: Pick Your Peak
Not every peak in the Himalayas is suitable for a novice. Some require serious technical climbing skills with ice walls, knife ridges and exposed drops into oblivion. Others are more single-file trudging at altitude, requiring a bit of crampon work and rope skills.
Generally, trekking peaks (5,800 and 6,500 meters) make for excellent first options. They are high enough to give that authentic Himalayan experience (altitude challenge, epic views, sense of accomplishment) without needing two years of degree-of-difficulty training. Most moderately fit persons can attempt these levels due to their endeavors and determination.
Some trekking peaks are still more challenging than others. For example, one might just have a consistent snowy slope with one moderately steeper section at the peak. Another includes glaciers, crevasses and portions where climbing instead of climbing-steep-hiking is necessary. Don’t just go by the height but what is actually involved.
Step 2: Know The Costs
This is where most people drop out before they start. They have some sort of expected budget in mind and the fees they see for expeditions do not match. The price quoted for an expedition is just the base fee.
Generally, trekking peaks cost between $2500 and $5000, which includes a basic travel fee to get you to the base camp and summit/scheduled returns. But that’s without flights – another $800-$1500 for international travel (dependent on where you’re coming from); gear – from $1000-$2000 if you need boots and sleeping bags down suits and technological gear on top of already owned hiking gear (you can rent there, luckily); permits/insurance/tips for guides/support staff (expected and appreciated), logistics for lodging up until and beyond treks (additional meals) as well as buffer fees for weather cancellations.
A good estimate for your first Himalayan expedition ranges between $5000-$8000 but when you think about it in terms of once-in-a-lifetime experience, it’s not as expensive as one would think to what you are getting.
Step 3: Train Your Body
The biggest deterrent for most? Altitude.
The complication for all but those with preexisting conditions is that it’s impossible to get one’s body acclimated before arriving. Unless you live in a high-altitude area, you simply have to show up as fit as possible and let acclimatization do its job.
What you can do is get cardiovascular fit. Cardio is key, first and foremost. Long hikes with weighted packs; stairs; running; biking; anything that gets your heart rate up enough for prolonged periods of time to make a 6-8-hour workout at sub-alpine levels easy. The more fit you are upon arrival, the better your body will handle the strain imposed on it.
Leg strength is important too. Those downhill hikes after summit day will burn your quads like nothing else you’ve ever felt before. Squats, lunges, hill training help.
Start your training regime 4-6 months prior to the expedition. Those who fail to meet the standards are often those who underestimate the condition required before they arrive or fail to give themselves proper preparation time.
Step 4: Find Your Ideal Expedition Company
Finding your ideal expedition company is perhaps one of the most critical components of this entire undertaking. A good company will have safety precautions in place and make your experience infinitely easier; a bad company will turn your dream expedition into a nightmare (or worse).
Find companies that have been operational with knowledgeable guides – not just guides who know how to get people to base camp and back but those who know the ins and outs of safety on and around the mountain as well.
Look for their safety records; what they provide; their reviews (especially from places other than their own social media); their guide/climber ratio – small groups with adequate support go much farther than large groups with none.
If you’re looking for popular trekking peaks, well known operators offering Mera Peak Climbing Nepal offer complete packages that cover all required permits, experienced Sherpa guides and acclimatization schedules which help ease beginners in how to appropriately plan.
Lastly – the cheapest option is rarely the best option. You’re putting your life in these people’s hands at extreme altitudes. They should be compensated accordingly.
Step 5: When to Go
Spring (April-May) and fall (October-November) are peak seasons for climbing in the Himalayas. Both offer good weather stability, albeit feeling a bit different from each other.
Spring tends to be less windy and milder but might pack in more snow due to winter’s attention. The view is epic with abundant whiteness as long as nothing is melting yet. Fall means vivid colors and stellar visibility – those famed photos you’ve seen online are typically taken in October. It’s also cold at night.
Your first expedition should either avoid the monsoon season (June-September) where precipitation and cloudiness dominates or winter (December-March) where it’s too cold to bear with unstable conditions.
You should book your expedition 6-12 months in advance as popular peaks fill and you’ll need time to prepare anyway. The earlier you reserve the easier it will be to stay motivated in training.
Step 6: Gear Up (Sort Of)
This isn’t as critical as it seems but don’t go overboard with new gear either. You need to ensure that your boots fit properly – and by that we mean break them in in advance – for they’re likely the most important item you’ll wear on your feet.
A sleeping bag below -20 degrees Celsius will be necessary – you’ll be cold enough when you’re up there – and a comfortable night’s sleep makes everything else easier. Down suits or extremely warm jackets due at least one point where you’ll summit at midnight where it gets cold fast.
Most companies will provide group gear – tents ropes cooking supplies etc – and it’s important to find out what’s included; what’s required to bring; what’s available for rent nearby – some items can be rented up there which saves time & money by saving space.
Step 7: Mental Preparation
Mental awareness is just as critical as physical awareness although it’s generally not discussed.
Any high-level trekking expedition requires a lot of fortitude when it comes to patience and resiliency – not every day up there is beautiful. Weather delays are common; uncomfortable nights are par for the course; GI issues happen; headaches from altitude can plague most everyone.
Set realistic expectations going in – not every second will be ideal – to knowing why you signed up for this on difficult days when everything seems annoying. When you summit after you’ve pushed through hard times on either side, it’s even that more rewarding to know that in that moment it all was worth it.
You may feel uncomfortable here on earth but meeting your goals at life’s highest peak will help elevate your spirits for eternity.
Conclusion
Planning a Himalayan expedition can feel overwhelming – but if you break it down into steps – from picking a peak, choosing an expedition company, sorting out training, gathering gear, reserving flights – you’ll soon find yourself just like thousands before arriving at an epic base camp to cross off part of your bucket list.
Every year thousands just like you accomplish their Himalayan dreams – armed with realistic expectations and plenty of preparation, there’s no reason why you can’t be one of them.
The Himalayas await!
